Upper Stikine River - 1992

Route Contact:
Hank Hays hank@canoebase.com

Portage Information

No. of Portages: 5
Total Portage Distance: 3500 m (2.2 miles)
Average Portage: 700 m (.4 mile)
Longest Portage: 1500 m (1 mile)

Ratings

Lake Travel: Novice
River Travel: Advanced
Portaging: Intermediate
Remoteness: Advanced

Guidebook

Maps

Federal Topo Maps (1:250,000):
104H Spatsizi River
94E Toodoggone River
104I Cry Lake

Federal Topo Maps (1:50,000):
104 H/1 Skelhorne Creek
104 H/8 Tuaton Lake
94 E/5 Laslui Lake
94 E/12 Spruce Hill
104 H/9 Dawson River
104 H/16 Diamond Creek
104 H/15 Cambridge Creek
104 H/14 Cullivan Creek
104 H/13 Ealue Lake
104 I/4 Cake Hill

Other Maps:
Park map - "Spatsizi Plateau Wilderness Provincial Park" available from BC Parks District Manager, Bag 5000, Smithers, BC V0J 2N0 Phone (250) 847-7320

Route Description and Distance Log:

Use Red Goat Lodge, Iskutine Lodge or Tatogga Lodge as a staging area. Park vehicles there, arrange for pickup at the Cassiar bridge after trip (north side of river was best for us), and arrange a flight to the chosen put-in lake. Red Goat and Iskutine also rent canoes and equipment, Tatogga did not in 1992, but did do pickups and shuttles. There may be other new outfitters and equipment rental companies now servicing the area.

Flight from Eddontenajon or Tatogga Lake to Happy or Tuaton Lake - 130 km / 80 air mi. - 20 to 45 min. flight

Happy Lake length - 2.2 km / 1.4 miles
Portage right - 100 m / yds. or portage down center of island 50 m / yds.
Lower Happy Lake length - 650 m / .4 mile
Portage right - 500 m / .3 mile around double set of falls
Happy Creek - 800 m / .5 mile to small lake
"Hapton" Lake length - 800 m / .5 mile
Stikine River - 2.0 km / 1.25 miles to Tuaton Lake
Tuaton Lake length - 7.0 km / 4.3 miles (has an upper and lower part)
Stikine River - 6.1 km / 3.8 miles to Laslui Lake
Laslui Lake length - 7.8 km / 4.8 miles
Stikine River - 4.5 km / 2.8 miles to portage
Portage right - 1000 m / .6 mile around Fountain Rapids
Stikine River - 9.6 km / 6 miles to portage
Portage left - 1000 m / .6 mile around Chapea Rapids
(possible 500 m / .3 mile if part of rapid is run, or sometimes all can be run)
Stikine River - 13.0 km / 8 miles to Metsantan / Moyez Creek
Stikine River - 12.7 km /7.9 miles to Adoogacho Creek
Stikine River - 22.5 km / 14 miles to Chukachida River
Stikine River - 8.2 km / 5 miles to Park (Goat) Creek
Stikine River - 32.5 km / 20 miles to Spatsizi River
Stikine River - 20.5 km / 12.7 miles to start of Jewel Rapids (no portage)
Stikine River - 24.6 km / 15.3 miles to Pitman River
Stikine River - 2.4 km / 1.5 miles to Schreiber Creek
Stikine River - 20.3 km / 12.6 miles to Kehlechoa River
Stikine River - 17.8 km / 11 miles to Cullivan Creek
Stikine River - 16.7 km /10.4 miles to McBride River
Stikine River - 26.2 km / 16.3 miles to portage
Portage right - 500 m / .3 mile around Beggerlay Rapids
Stikine River - 3.1 km / 1.9 miles to Klappan River
Stikine River - 21.8 km / 13.5 miles to Cassiar Bridge

Have a pickup prearranged from the bridge back to your staging area or hitch-hike. Possible vandalism problems preclude leaving an unattended vehicle near the bridge during your trip.

Comments:

Location of the trip is NW British Columbia south of the village town of Dease Lake. In the Spatsizi Plateau Wilderness Provincial Park and separate, but contiguous Stikine River Recreation Area. The take-out is the Stewart-Cassiar Highway bridge (BC Route 37) over the Stikine River, between the villages of Dease Lake and Iskut, BC. To put in, fly to Happy Lake or Tuaton Lake just downstream. There is no put-in above Tuaton on the Stikine proper. The route consists of paddling east into Laslui Lake with short creek / river stretches between the lakes, then continuing on the Stikine River which swings north, then west, then northwest to the take-out bridge. Distances listed above are between landmarks that would be hard to miss, not necessarily between usable campsites. Overall paddling distance can be reduced slightly by flying into Tuaton or Laslui Lake

Time of Year:

We flew in the afternoon of July 21, 1992 and took out the afternoon of August 7, 1992. This run should be possible all spring and summer, though a portage of at least some of the upper river between Happy and Tuaton Lakes (besides the waterfalls) might be required later in the season. There was a lot of rain early before our trip, but our river levels were not high by the time we got there.

River Gauge:

There is a government water survey gauge above the take-out point which tells you nothing about the condition of the headwaters. There is another gauge (I think) below the Spatsizi confluence, but it will not tell you much either. I've been unable to get readings for this one. Few (if any) up to the minute, or daily readings are available for Canadian river and stream gauges. Try to obtain some yearly averages and plan your trip accordingly. This run has water most of the season.

Duration:

The 8 day duration is a minimum, given favorable water levels. Recommended duration is 12 or more days - take at least a couple of layover days in the headwater lakes and hike around a bit. It's a pretty place (we spent half our time there and considered it worth it).

Portages:

There are cut and marked trails (except the first two up at Happy Lake which were not cut in 1992). Distances are not long, very little up and down, and most of the walking is pretty easy.

Lake Travel:

Novice rated, about 17.4 km total. All lakes are small and narrow, and wind should not be a problem. Except for possible mud, there is easy shore access most everywhere.

River Travel:

Advanced, a total of 268 km. The rapids are mainly long and continuous, though most are only up to class 2+. Few canoeists would run the rapids between Happy Lake and lower Happy at the level I saw it, though I'm sure it could be done. I don't think anyone would consider running the two waterfalls below Lower Happy lake, or Fountain Rapids (below Laslui Lake). Chapea (Class 3 or higher) and Beggerlay Rapids (Class 3 or higher) require a decision after scouting. Jewel is probably only a class 2 at the most and might be easier at higher water levels than at lower ones. There are several other short rapids between the Spatsizi confluence and the take-out bridge that might be a class 2+ or so at times. Most are in braided sections which can change quickly, and will also require individual decisions.

Remoteness:

Advanced. There is a lodge on Laslui Lake, another on the Spatsizi about 6 km above the mouth (a trail is marked on the map from the Stikine R.), and another on the Stikine 2 km below the Spatsizi confluence, all with radios. There will usually be someone at all three places during the runnable season. It wouldn't hurt to check with your flight service as to who's still around, and if there is anyone new. With prior arrangement (before your trip) it might be possible for small groups to purchase good meals and showers at any of these establishments.

Weather:

It can be pretty rainy. The weather for the Stewart / Hyder area would probably be your closest and most reliable forecast center for the Stikine area. The park gets a reasonable amount of rain. The headwaters are high enough (1200 + m) that cold weather can be a factor too. Any clear nights will probably result in freezing temperatures. Daytime temps for us were usually a pleasant 18-20°C. Even hot a couple of times - 30°C. We had rain, and other groups we talked to who were there at other times (before us and the year after us) had lots of rain. Be ready for it. We lucked out in the headwaters area, and did not have much rain, but you may not fare as well.

Like on most rivers, different water levels can change river difficulty quickly. Ice breakup can move rocks around, especially in the headwaters area. It also moves logs and log jams around, and changes channels and islands in braided areas almost every year.

Rapids:

A lot of rapids (up to class 2+) from Happy or Tuaton Lake down to Metsantan Creek. Upper river very small, especially above Laslui Lake. Late summer flows may necessitate walking short shallow stretches. Both of the falls below Happy Lake would be a class 5+ .... Scout and find them for sure, then don't miss the portage (Hint: Don't paddle any moving water...).

Fountain Rapids is a good class 5. Portaging the whole thing is highly recommended. You'll probably want to portage at least part of Chapea Rapids. First part is the hardest. Rest is in a low-walled canyon and not hard, just bumpy with rocks and waves. Jewel Rapids should not be a problem, probably easier at higher water than when lower. Take a look at Beggerlay Rapids, the canyon part is flat at normal water levels.

In 1992 there were large yellow signs marking the beginning of each portage below Laslui Lake (no signs at Happy Lake, could be now). There was a sign on the right indicating the start of Jewel Rapids, but it did not indicate a portage, and none is required if you are capable of running the rest of the river.

Below the Cassiar Bridge is the infamous "Grand Canyon of the Stikine." Nasty water. About 100 km / 60 miles of heavy class 4 to 6+. At least four of the rapids have yet to be run by kayak or raft, much less in a canoe. Vertical walled canyon, very difficult portaging (some technical climbing required). Don't miss the bridge! Below the Grand Canyon is about 140 miles of huge flat river to the Pacific Ocean. It would be interesting in its own way, mainly because of the glaciers in the Coast Range Mountains. We plan on doing it eventually.

Other Resources:

Mitch and Jacquie Cunningham of Red Goat Lodge, Box 101, Iskut, BC V0J 1K0 Phone (250) 234-3261 year round. Also, Iskutine Lodge and Tatogga Lake Lodge, but I don't have contact information on them. They are both south of Iskut. None of the above three are on line yet (12/98). As of 1998, the only canoe outfitter licensed by the Park to lead guided trips on the upper Stikine was Northern Sun Tours in Smithers BC, though others may operate through them. http://www.northernsun.bc.ca/

Murray Woods, of Harbor Air, is a recommended air shuttler with a Dehaviland Beaver, and was based at Tatogga Lodge in 1992. Couples with one canoe should see if there is a Cessna 185 in the area as a less-expensive fly-in option. We used one that was available in 1992, but that pilot died when his plane crashed in 1994. There was no replacement we could find as of 1997.

Another Telegraph Creek based floatplane service I just found on the Web is at:
http://www.floatplanes.com/stikine%20river%20canoe%20trip.htm
Check with them for information and rates. I understand there is also someone in Dease Lake. I'll find out what I can on them.

Make the flight the shortest you can for least expense. Ron Jansen would fly to Eddentenajon Lake for free if guaranteed two flights from there to Tuaton Lake. Others may not do that, though you can ask them how bad they want the business. Without recommendations or references, there is no way to know how reliable any one service is.

Spatsizi Wilderness Vacations is a fly-in outfitter with three different lodges in Spatsizi Wilderness Park. Primarily a hunting and fishing guide that flies guests around to the hook and bullet action. Also does horse pack trips in the Park. They also are starting to work with Northern Sun Tours above to offer some canoe tripping. http://www.spatsizi.com/

The best "Outfitters in Canada" listing I've found Is Explore Magazine's at: http://www.explore-mag.com/explorers/outfitters/geographic.html
It covers outfitters of all kinds, not just ecotour types, and they don't list everyone, of course, but do have phone numbers for many that are not online.

Introduction

The Upper Stikine is a river run approximately 178 miles long (287 km) between Happy Lake and the Cassiar Highway (B.C. Route 37) Bridge. It can be done in seven to eight days as a quick trip, but much more time is recommended, figure a minimum of 12 days in order to experience the area adequately. It can be shortened a day by flying into Laslui Lake, downstream of Happy Lake several miles. The most common put-in is probably Tuaton Lake.

This is a white water run from the headwaters down, with lots of rapids the whole length of the trip. Small and rocky in the upper reaches, especially in the summer, with some big boily water downstream all the time. Three rapids will be required portages for everyone, and at least two other rapids need to be scouted by everyone before running them. There are also some potential log jam hazards.

If you should get into trouble and need emergency help during your run, your best bet is staying put and waiting for someone to come by, but if you are close enough, there are a few spots with radio telephones that might be able to get a message out. Figure on any helicopter evacuation type rescue as costing a minimum of $3,000 (probably more).

This is a fly-in trip, you do have to charter a short airplane flight into Tuaton or Happy Lake for you, your gear, and boat, but you can paddle back to your car (outfitter pickup recommended). The flight will probably cost less than $500US for two people if a Cessna is available, more if the Beaver is the only choice.

We spent half of our time in the upper lakes region working out of a base camp, then the rest slowly working our way down the river. We would have spent more time in the lower section except a large forest fire near the end of the trip limited hiking and visibility a lot.

End of File

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