Upper Stikine River - 1992

Route Contact:
Hank Hays hank@canoebase.com

Trip Log

Introduction

Exerpts from a journal of an 18 day trip on the upper Stikine River in northern British Columbia, Canada, in late July and early August of 1992.

Getting to the Park

Saturday, 18 July, 1992
Dennis Deck and Hank and Laurie Hays arrived at John Snively's house and had John's Plymouth Voyager minivan packed by 9 am, ready to start driving the 1350 miles from near Portland, Oregon, to our Canadian Northwoods destination. John had loaded his new, green 17 foot ABS Mad River Explorer. Hank had his new, yellow 18-1/2 foot Kevlar Sea Clipper, made by Western Canoeing in Abbotsford, B.C..

Saturday, 18 July through Monday, 20 July, 1992
A leisurely drive up through B.C. towards the Stikine River country. We camped the first night at Skihist Provincial Park along the North Thompson River, then the next night at Tyee Provincial Park near Smithers.

Day 1 -- Tuesday, 21 July, 1992
The Stikine originates in Spatsizi Wilderness Plateau Provincial Park, accessed by the Stewart-Cassiar Highway (B.C. Route 37), which runs between the towns of Hazelton, B.C., and Watson Lake, Yukon. The Red Goat Lodge, near the small Indian village of Iskut, also has hostel rooms, a small campground, and rents equipment for canoe trips in the area. The proprietors at the time were Tony and Doreen Shaw, who were very friendly and full of information about the Stikine. We also got to talk at length to a Denver, CO group staying with them, who had just finished a 10 day rafting trip (with kids) on the Stikine from Tuaton Lake, our put-in. They gave us much useful information.

Our Cessna floatplane arrived at 1:30 pm, Dennis, John, their gear, and boat were loaded and lifted off the water at 1:50 pm. The trip into the Park consists of a 42-45 minute flight to Tuaton Lake, with another 30-35 minutes back for the pilot in the empty plane. The flight in was over the incredibly mountainous region of the Spatsizi Wilderness Plateau. Now a region of glacier and stream carved mountains, though it may have been a true plateau a few million years back. The north facing slopes were full of snow, south slopes fairly clear. Dennis and John landed on Tuaton Lake at 2:35 pm. They unloaded gear and the pilot left to pick up Hank and Laurie.

Dennis and John paddled around the area a bit looking for a good campsite, and also managed to scrounge a little firewood in case it was needed later. Tuaton's elevation (4180 ft., 1274 m.) is near treeline, any trees are quite small, and dead wood is quite sparse. Tuaton Lake is about 4 miles long (6.5 km) and probably not quite a mile across (1.5 km) at its widest point, which is the upstream, or southwest end. John's and Dennis's tents were up when Hank and Laurie arrived about 4:45 pm -- both a little airsick. The weather was good, 3/4 cloud cover, but no rain. 67°F (19.5°C) at 7:30 pm, John was sitting on the shoreline with an old friend, Yukon Jack.

The Upper Lakes Region

Day 2 -- Wednesday, 22 July, 1992
Up at 7 am with a heavy mist over the lake. Temperature of 38°F, (3.5°F) very chilly and foggy. We didn't want to immediately head down river so started hiking up the Stikine drainage from camp at 10:30 am. The trail is a mix of trying to follow a faint outfitter's horse trail which we lost repeatedly early in the hike, forcing us to resort to bushwhacking through the dwarf birch thickets and crossing small creek drainages barely visible through the willows. In a mile or less (1.5 km) we came out onto some wide open flat fields with less bushwhacking and fewer surprise wet feet from stumbling into small creeks. We stopped at 2:30 pm where the trail crossed the Stikine. Water is cold, and well over knee deep, so we wimped out and decided not to cross. Three of us sat on a glacial esker overlooking the Stikine while Dennis hiked north 1/3 of a mile (.5) km up to a wooded area.

We saw many different birds, the best new one was Smith's Longspur. We are also amazed at the apparent lack of large mammals. No sign of bear, caribou, goat, sheep or even many small mammals. Some moose sign in timbered areas. One moose seen on a mountain slope about 3 miles (5 km) away. Arctic Terns and Lesser Scaups seen during the evening back at camp. At 9 pm, mostly clear sky, 48°F (9°C), no wind, lots of mosquitoes, but avoidable if you keep moving.

Day 3 -- Thursday, 23 July, 1992
Some fog in the morning and what looks to be smoke from a forest fire is blanketing the far side of the lake. Wake up temperature at 34°F (1°C), but frost on most vegetation. Everyone slept warmly. Paddled to inlet of lake and continued working the boats upstream. No rapids, but fast current all the way made headway difficult. The Stikine here is quite small, maybe 500 cfs (14 cms) at this time of year. Dennis and John fished occasionally. Hank and Laurie paddled up around the next bend as the fishermen tried their luck at a likely spot. Our end position was determined to be less than a half mile (800 m) from Happy Lake. We were scouting a possible assault on Happy Lake -- mainly the easiest way to get there with a boat and camping gear.

There was sign of much moose activity on the Stikine delta, along with wolf tracks. One big surprise for John was that yellowlegs would defend their territory (nesting?) by perching in the tops of small trees or shrubs and screaming at us until we left the area, where another bird would take over the job. Neither John or Dennis had ever seen yellowlegs perching before.

We saw three airplanes land on the lake while we were gone. Later, we found that one was a Beaver dropping off two Park Wardens to clear and mark the portage routes downstream. Smaller planes landed twice, the second one (maybe both?) was Ray Collingwood in his Cessna 185, flying four paying fly fishing clients from Sacramento, CA, around to the fishing action. Ray owns Laslui Lake Lodge on the next lake downstream. While John and Dennis were still fishing upstream, Hank and Laurie talked with Ray for about half an hour and got much local info on sight seeing, birding, and possible mammal sightings at mineral licks. Ray said that a very hard freeze just after the birds flew in killed a large percentage of them, his educated guess at the reason was low, post-flight, fat reserves.

The BC Parks portage crew stopped to visit just at dusk and showed us a huge Dolly Varden one of them caught. They had installed an unenclosed pit toilet at the campsite across the lake from us and were heading downriver tomorrow sometime. Several new birds were seen today, including a Golden Eagle. We heard beavers slap the water with their tails at night and in the morning. It sounds like big stones being dropped into the water from high up. Saw the beavers intermittently, later on.

Day 4 -- Friday, 24 July, 1992
A lone woodland caribou crossed through the birch about 150 yards from camp during breakfast. The decision was made to go to Happy Lake so camp was broken in preparation. We packed essential gear and enough food and clothing for two days. Paddled to the inlet of Tuaton Lake, dropped "anchor," a stone from the river bank tied to a throw rope, and Dennis and John caught fish for about an hour, releasing them all. We then continued paddling and lining our boats up the river again, ferrying to the opposite bank when necessary to find the easiest water. The gradient is quite low, but the water is fast in many places. We could paddle most of the way upstream, but did have to get out and line up some short shallow stretches.

About an hour after leaving Tuaton Lake we reached a small, narrow, unnamed lake which we called Hapton (HAPpy/tuaTON) on Happy Creek, just above its confluence with the Stikine River. This was Hank's and Laurie's stopping point the day before. We climbed to the top of a moraine there for a view and saw a cow moose about 1/3 mile (500 m) to the west. Dennis and John found another "lunker hole" containing Rainbows and Dolly Vardens in the four pound range (2 kg). Again, all were released.

Approximately 45 minutes of mostly wading boats up through small rapids found us at the bottom of an unrunnable (20+ ft., 6 m) waterfall with another like it just upstream. Dennis fished while Hank and Laurie found a portage trail not far from the water on river right. It is about a ten minute portage to Happy Lake with some minor uphill climbing. Good trail, but very narrow, and through head high brush. We left John's canoe at the base of the waterfall, but Hank carried his larger, lighter boat on up so we'd have some transportation on Happy Lake. Total travel time, Tuaton Lake upstream to Happy Lake, about 2 hours, not including gear portaging or fishing time. The run on Happy Creek and the Stikine River between the two lakes is about two miles long (3.2 km).

We set up camp at a very small, but good site at the end of the portage trail looking over the horizon line of a waterfall. It is the one upstream of the one that stopped us from lining our boats up. The small lake we are camped on (we called it lower Happy Lake) is separated from the "real" Happy Lake by a steep and very shallow 50 yard creek (50 m), all rapids. Boats can be carried/slid up an island for a short carry, or there is a different 100 yard (100 m) portage trail beginning 75-100 yards (75-100 m) east of the lower end of the rapids between the two lakes. The "upper and lower" Happy Lake complex is under two miles long (3.2 km).

It was sunny so Hank, Laurie, and John canoed a short excursion on the north end of Happy Lake for pictures. The scenery is incredible, even better than Tuaton, as the high, glaciated mountains are much closer to the water's edge. We decided to fly into this lake, for sure, next trip. From one viewpoint on the bank we could look downstream (NE) and see Tuaton Lake, 80 feet (25 m) below us, and a mile or so (1.5 km) away. Looking upstream, we got glimpses of small glaciers and icefields on the mountain tops to the south. Instead of going with us, Dennis hiked up to a view point on the mountain adjacent to camp, then down to join us near the rapids leading to lower Happy, meeting us as we were returning from our short paddle.

The mosquitoes this evening were terrible. Dennis is one to take advantage of each and every opportunity, however bad, and made the best of this situation by pulling out his library and identifying at least four species of mosquitoes and biting flies.

Happy Lake, Continued -- More Upper Lakes

Day 5 -- Saturday, 25 July, 1992
It rained lightly on and off last night. Today was spent mostly huddled around a campfire trying to stay warm and dry. Rain squalls and wind picked up throughout the day. We're glad we got pictures yesterday in the sunny weather, and now regret that we did not bring a tarp and some ropes.

During a 2 pm lull in the weather we decided to brave it, and all climbed into the canoe for a tour of rainy Happy Lake. We wanted to get to the upper (south) end and hike farther upstream on Happy Creek. Instead, we settled for simply portaging over to Happy Lake, then crossing it and crashing our way through the brush to an unnamed waterfall on the west shore. While there we got soaked by a major rain squall accompanied by a nasty wind. We cancelled the rest of the exploratory, paddled back to camp, and spent the remainder of the day drying our clothes, socks, and shoes next to a small fire. Later, the rain dwindled and the wind lessened, but not enough to let the mosquitoes come out -- the only good thing about the weather.

Day 6 -- Sunday, 26 July, 1992
It did not rain during the night but morning weather is a chilly 46°F (8°C) and quite windy, with rain squalls in the mountains to the south. We decided not to try canoeing Happy Lake again because of the uncertainty of weather and wind. We portaged all the gear back to where we left John's canoe, then checked out the portage trail on below the falls, which the Park map we had shows continuing to Tuaton. The trail deteriorates some, but a good route does seem to exist across open moraine meadows all along Happy Creek almost to Hapton Lake (note this for future, in case the creek is too high to paddle). Hiking time from Happy Lake to Hapton Lake estimated to be about 20 minutes. We didn't actually check the portage trail all the way to Tuaton as the run below there is too easy at this waterlevel.

We had enough water to easily paddle from the base of the falls down to Hapton. The gradient is steep and there are many exposed rocks to dodge, but the water is low enough that the current isn't real fast. We drifted down to Tuaton Lake where John and Dennis caught fish for dinner, keeping only a few of the better eating Rainbows, then we returned to our main campsite. Water travel time, Happy down to Tuaton, about an hour, and we dawdled along looking at the sights.

Back at camp, Dennis hiked to the edge of Tuaton Mountain while John walked up towards the Stikine a bit for photography. A plane had landed earlier today and dropped off a group of canoeists now camped across the lake from us.

Day 7 -- Monday, 27 July, 1992
Morning temperature, 46°F (8°C). We were surprised with overcast skies and an ominous threat of rain on getting up. Dennis and John found some dead willows long enough to make poles to set up a tarp. We managed to get it erected after discussing a multitude of pole-tarp-rope-anchor engineering strategies as there were no rocks or trees at our site big enough to easily anchor to.

No rain appeared so we spent the day hiking up an unnamed creek that flows northeast into the Stikine at the downstream end of Tuaton Lake. Ray Collingwood had told us of mineral licks at about 2 and 2-1/2 miles (3.2 and 4 km) up that drainage. Trails begin (some bushwhacking) in a cove near the spit midway along the south shore of Tuaton where the new group is camped. We visited them for a bit and learned they are all from the Vancouver B.C. area, and plan to take 11 or 12 days to run the Stikine.

45 minutes of hiking to the first mineral lick at the bottom of a ravine. Many criss-crossing trails (caribou and moose) make the area look like a stock yard. Much grizzly scat on the trail and throughout the area, but nothing fresh. We looked for, but missed the second mineral lick somehow. The valley is very pretty, but difficult to traverse because of deep ravines, small creeks, swamps, willows and dwarf birch. A lot of animal sign in the area but not many seen -- two cow caribou and one bull moose.

Day 8 -- Tuesday, 28 July, 1992
Morning temperature is 50°F (10°C). Partly cloudy, but the day looks good. The plan for the day is to hike up the Stikine valley again. We know the route more efficiently, and even plan to wade the river when we have to. We canoed up Tuaton Lake about a km to where the meadows begin, and began hiking from there. It's easier going than our previous bushwhacking experience across muddy creeks. Flowers and photography are wonderful. No rain!

Most of the walk is very easy, like walking across a farmers newly mown hayfield. Mostly old fields and terraces, gravel outwash from glaciers flat enough to land a wheeled plane on. Our pilot had told us it had been done, but he wouldn't want to have to try it. A leisurely walk, plus wading the cold Stikine and a few small tributaries. A very enjoyable day except for the old granola bar wrapper found by Hank at our lunch stop, a million miles from nowhere. We were hoping to get to another large kame field area upstream, but ended up not going that far. Four rainbow trout were caught for dinner on the way "home." Our neighbors across the lake had gone up to Happy Lake to camp for a night on our recommendation.

To Laslui Lake

Day 9 -- Wednesday, 29 July, 1992
Morning temperature is 52°F (11°C), a cloudy, overcast day. Ate breakfast and broke camp as it is finally time to head on to the next lake. We had about a two and a half mile paddle (4 km) to the outlet of Tuaton Lake and saw a caribou cow and calf on the north bank, near the outlet as we went by. The Stikine here between the lakes is small volume and about four miles long (6.5 km) with some short easy rapids. They are mostly riffles, but a few rocks require some quick turns in order to dodge them successfully. Massive beaver workings create swamps on both sides of this river section. Lunch half way down where we did a short hike to the top of an esker or drumlin for a canoeing break, and an overview of the territory we had just paddled through.

We reached Laslui Lake, the fishing was no good at the time where the river entered, so we paddled on. Stopped at the Laslui Lake Lodge on the south shore near the west end where we were met by the cook, Louanne Chapman, and her 12 year old daughter, Leecole. They were very friendly, and showed us around the lodge and its accommodations (small peripheral cabins) as no clients were there at the time. They also told us of a good day hike from the Lodge to Hotlesklwa Lake (HOT-less-kwah -- just don't pronounce the second "l") and the possibility of goat sightings there. We decided to hike to Hotlesklwa tomorrow. Tired from our exhausting seven mile paddle (snicker!), we set camp up on a point a quarter mile east of the Lodge. Not a good site, but close to the start of tomorrow's activities. A cow moose and calf joined us for the sunset. Today's overcast weather seems to be improving.

Day 10 -- Thursday, 30 July, 1992
We all got up, grateful we weren't tromped into the muskeg by Momma Moose during the night. We paddled back to the lodge after breakfast where Leecole volunteered to be our guide up to Hotlesklwa for the day. We later discovered it also got her out of a painting project. The Lodge's propane tanks had emptied during the night so we replaced the two 200 pounders and relit all the pilot lights for them. Louanne was very grateful as Ray (lodge owner) wasn't due back until late the next day, and they would have spent that time without "power."

We hiked the four or five miles (6 to 8 km) up to Hotlesklwa Lake in 1-1/2 hours on an excellent horse trail, wading across cold Hotlesklwa Creek twice on the way. Most of the trail is on very flat, old glacial outwash/kame terrace terrain like our hikes along the Stikine River above Tuaton Lake. There's a muddy, swampy stretch at the Hotlesklwa end of the trail.

Leecole turned out to be a great 12 year old girl. She has a very cheerful personality, is eager to help, show the way, and give information. Upon arrival at the lake, we boarded a 17 foot sled boat and motored 1/2 mile (.8 km) south to a mineral lick right along the east lake shore. It looked like all the animals in the world had been there. We motored another mile and saw many goats high on Mount Terraze, on the east side of the lake. Ate lunch while watching them and picked a route up to try and get a closer look.

A 50 minute climb of about 1000 vertical feet (300 m) brought us to within 700-800 yards (630 to 720 m) of the goats. It was a warm day and many were resting on small snowfields. They were surely aware of us, but did give us plenty of time to observe them before they slowly headed farther up and over the summit. We counted 68 goats total with the lodge's spotting scope and tripod Louanne had insisted we carry with us.

We descended in 20 minutes (downhill, and noise was not a problem now), then motored another five miles (8 km) to the south end of this long, very narrow lake. It is an incredibly beautiful lake and mountain valley area. It is similar to Happy Lake with the proximity of the mountain slopes to the water, and glaciated peaks to the south. There are large fields of fireweed at the south end and several large landslides on the eastern shore.

Back to the north end of the lake, then we hiked back to the lodge in an hour and 20 minutes. Surprise -- Louanne had dinner about ready. Pork chops, salad, potatoes, cottage cheese, green beans, excellent mushroom gravy, and even cold beer. Fine wilderness fare! Dennis and John did the dishes. We all took showers and spent the evening playing the card game, UNO, with Louanne and Leecole. They loved it.

We paddled off to camp at 11 pm. A 2 am trip outside the tent by John provided him a good display of northern lights. It was cold outside and he didn't think anyone else would be interested. He's so selfish sometimes! Animal count for the day: 68 goats, 1 bull caribou, a cow moose and calf, and solitary sandpipers.

Down the River

Day 11 -- Friday, 31 July, 1992
Clear morning, temperature reached 32°F again (0°C), with a little frost. Broke camp and left by 9:30 am. It's only about four miles (6.5 km) to the end of Laslui Lake and we saw several other better campsites than the one we used as a convenience for yesterday's hiking access. Laslui Lake is long and skinny, about five miles long (8 km) by less than a half mile (.8 km) at its widest point. From the upper end of Tuaton to the outlet of Laslui is less than 13 miles (21 km), an easy day trip in a canoe (even in bad weather) for those without all the extra time we spent up in the high country. Add a maximum of about four miles (6.5 km) and a couple of short portages to that if you fly into Happy Lake.

Small rapids were encountered in the Stikine below Laslui, and easily run before reaching the first yellow portage sign on the right bank, two and a half miles (4 km) from the lake. The group of Canadians had passed us yesterday while we were in the lodge and are now just ahead of us.

A good half mile portage trail (800 m) exists on river right around Fountain Rapids. We had everything portaged in about two hours and set up camp near the downstream end of the trail. Another very short paddling day covering only about seven miles (11 km). Hank estimates the river is flowing at about 1500 cfs (42 cms). The alpine firs of the high, wetter country have given away to the lodgepole pine and dwarf birch communities found in drier soils. Several Bald Eagles were seen, as well as Rusty Blackbirds and many Bohemian Waxwings.

Day 12 -- Saturday, 1 August, 1992
A cold night for everyone with much frost in the morning. 7 am temperature at 35°F (1.5°C), but it rose to over 88°F at midday (31°C) under clear skies, then some later afternoon cirrus clouds appeared. Water temperature is now at 65°F (18.5°C), 5F degrees (2.7°C) warmer than at Happy Lake. We spent about an hour hiking up and along photogenic Fountain Rapids -- rated at class 5, and well over a quarter mile long, total (400 m).

We paddled away from that camp at 11 am and encountered numerous easy class two rapids in the six miles (9.5 km) down to Chapea Rapids. None of the rapids between Fountain and Chapea are hard, but many do require some rock dodging all the way through. Not a run for first time canoeists. We caught the the Canadian group again at the top of Chapea Rapids. They had camped there at the top, and were still figuring out how to run it.

A good half to 1-1/2 km portage trail exists on river left. We elected to run most of this rapids. We avoided the steep side of the first river wide ledge by staying on extreme river left, then quickly slipped to river right, and landed just above the second ledge. The second ledge is actually a couple hundred busy feet (60 m) downstream of the first one, so it's not a real problem. Without removing any gear, we lifted our boats about 40 feet (12 m) around the main drop of the second ledge. This "liftover" may not be an option in higher water, either because of no place to do it, or the portions upstream or downstream are now difficult enough to preclude a run. Ledge number three is immediately below the second ledge, and we could put back in and sneak number three on the right. We then ran the remaining 1/2 km very busy class 2+ rapids (rocks, waves, and very fast water) in a vertical, but low-walled canyon. A swim there would be very bumpy and possibly long and cold. The Canadian group did flip one canoe here, but with eight people in their group, had enough spotters prepared with throw ropes, and managed to recover canoe, gear, and people very quickly.

An aluminum canoe was wrapped around the rock just below Chapea Rapids where a father/son team flipped 3 or so weeks earlier and decided to be helicoptered out (to the tune of about $3,500). One of that group spent most of a day hiking, wading and swimming his way the 14 miles (22 km) back upstream to Laslui Lodge to radio telephone out for help. We had heard about it from the Denver group at Red Goat Lodge before our flight into Tuaton.

That afternoon the river on toward Metsantan Creek was garnished with a couple dozen class two rock gardens requiring rock dodging ability only. Several miles above Metsantan Creek the river calms to a fast pace without rapids or boulders. We camped on river right somewhere shortly above Metsantan Creek, about 14 miles (22 km) below our camp at Fountain Rapids. The Vancouver group passed us just after we pulled over, and later, a bull moose ambled upstream in the river until he saw (smelled, heard?) us from about 150 yards (150 m) away. He changed direction and we finally lost sight of him in the brush. In spite of a suspicious afternoon, the sky is clear again at 10 pm.

Day 13 -- Sunday, 2 August, 1992
Did a lot of fishing, mostly at creek mouths along the way. John caught a big Dolly at the mouth of Chili Creek. Judging from the equipment we find, the Vancouverites stop at most of the same places. We returned several articles to them at various meetings before the trip ended.

Stopped and hiked up to Adoogacho Creek Falls, about 20 minutes from the river. We waded the stream to the right bank at the bottom of the falls to climb to a view from the top (not possible on left bank) -- a must see for any group -- very spectacular. A limited view of the Stikine in the distance from the top of the falls.

We drifted on down to a mini braided section with a labyrinth of side channels, looking for a campsite. Ended up with a good spot on a gravel bar where we found the tracks of a pair of wolves in the mud. A little sprinkle during the evening and some rain during the night. We had paddled about 20 miles today (32 km) and figure we are about an hour and a half above the Chukachida River confluence.

Day 14 -- Monday, 3 August, 1992
Morning rain, but mostly sunny later on. The area starting about 3 miles (5 km) above the Chukachida River is full of S-bends, log jams, and sweepers. Could be a problem at high water. The Chukachida River is much larger than the Stikine and white with glacial silt. After the confluence, the Stikine's current averages much faster, probably 5-6 mph (8-10 kph). It is about 150-200 feet wide (45-60 m), 2-4 feet deep (1 meter), and at least 5-6,000 cfs 140-170 cms). Any white water in this section was restricted to occasional rocks causing solitary waves.

Campsites are few to nonexistent between the Chukachida and Spatsizi Rivers. We finally found a good campsite on river left approximately 3/4 km (.5 mi) before the Spatsizi confluence. It's on a ledge away from the river in a grove of small lodgepole pines. Good flat ground and a good view. Paddled about 30 miles today (48 km).

Day 15 -- Tuesday, 4 August, 1992
Broke camp on a nice sunny day. The Spatsizi River is very big and dumps a lot of silt into the river, where the Stikine becomes really cloudy. We discovered that there is a better campsite than the one we used last night on a river right sandbar at the Spatsizi junction, though much of it may be flooded out if the water is real high. The river below the Spatsizi was now at least 15,000 cfs (425 cms). A kilometer below the Spatsizi (.6 mi.) an elevated cable crosses the river, and in another mile (1.5 km) we encountered a bed and breakfast lodge high on a huge gravel bar on the right. The buildings were not visible from the river, but there was a small dock with a boat tied to it. Nobody home, and not real fancy, but a great setting. We continued downstream to Jewel rapids, which is a 2 km (1.5 mi) long rock dodging exercise. Large boulders, widely spaced, a relatively easy rapids, but with some pinning potential because the current is quite fast.

We stopped just below Jewel at a river right creek for lunch. The Canadians were just leaving the spot. It was sunny and warm so we took turns using our "solar" shower and doing laundry, all with stove heated water. "Cut banks" were becoming more common. These are old glacial river and lake deposits now being cut into by the river. In this area there was also abundant slump and slide activity which increased the turbidity of the already opaque river. It is now averaging well over 200 feet wide (61 m), running 5-6 mph (8-10 kph), and often with many braided channels. Waves are getting larger and splashing water into boats on occasion. We also saw more rapids, the larger of which seem to be mostly where braid channels come back together.

We camped on river right at the downstream side of the Pitman river confluence after covering about 28 miles (45 km). It's a small, but good, low-water only campsite on a sandbar with a well used animal mineral lick behind it. The Pitman was running clear, and very shallow, only about 60-75 feet wide (18-23 m).

Day 16 -- Wednesday, 5 August, 1992
We broke camp and drifted the short distance down to Shreiber Creek. It was recognized by being a very small creek emerging from a very narrow, steep walled canyon with a very small beach at the mouth, which might be covered in higher water. A wider valley just upstream is not it. A twenty minute hike up the creek through a labyrinth of downed trees from soil slump activity brought us to Shreiber Canyon, a hoodoo erosional feature cut into a very friable, brick red, conglomerate rock. It winds for at least a km, all very photogenic, and a recommended stop. The rock color turns from red to tan farther upstream, and hikers might also notice some thin coal seams there.

About a mile and a half below Shreiber Canyon we encountered a very serious log jam in the center channel of some braids. It required early positioning and strong paddling to river right as the main current jet blasts into the logs. Taking the extreme right channel just below some tan conglomerate cliffs on river right would avoid it entirely. This jam could change fairly often as spring runoff is usually high and powerful. Just a warning to watch for log jams the whole length of the river. Our trip was 1992, some jams last a long time, others are gone in a few days, weeks or next year, and can move around as floods change the river.

Also in this area, about 2 km (1.2 mi) of 150-200 foot high (46-60 m) cliffs of glacial silt deposits formed massive slide areas on river right. Turbidity had increased so that the water was very dark. The river was now averaging 100 yards wide (100 m). We camped on river left at an old hunter's camp just upstream and across from the Kehlechoa River mouth, 14 miles (22.5 km) below our last campsite at the mouth of the Pitman River. We saw thick smoke from a forest fire that evening downstream. Probably the one we've been getting whiffs of as high as Metsantan Creek. Heavy smoke smell because of upstream winds, and much rain that night. We didn't like the rain, but it turned out that it was to be of much help to us.

The Forest Fire

Day 17 -- Thursday, 6 August, 1992
We pushed off in the morning and found the Canadian group camped on a mini- sandbar on river left several miles below our campsite. We were surprised to see them as they were in a hurry and should be at least a day ahead of us by now. It turns out they had camped the night before, stopped by the forest fire raging on river left just in front of them. They cooked supper and watched the fire jump the river as they were eating. The wind increased and whipped the smoke in their direction -- so thick that it forced them to pack up and paddle upstream a mile or so (1.5 km) to a big gravel bar where they set up camp again. The smoke followed them and got bad enough (some glowing embers falling) that they packed up in the dark and hiked with minimal sleeping gear upstream another half mile (.8 km) to the sandbar where we found them.

The fire area was a spooky looking scene with smoldering fire, mostly put out by the heavy rains of last night. Still little patches of flame here and there. The fire front was evident for at least two or three miles along the riverbank, mostly on the left.

We paddled most of today with wet handkerchiefs over our faces (bank robber style) to filter out the heavy smoke. It worked pretty well. Quite a bit of rain, low clouds and smoke. John is a geology teacher and would liked to have taken pictures of the many interesting soil slump and resulting "drunken forest" areas, but the rain, clouds and smoke were all too thick for decent shots.

The Canadians caught us at our lunchstop, just downstream of another small lobe of smoky fire on the left bank. A jetboat with a crew of two Park Wardens heading upstream didn't know the fire had jumped the river. Rain had come just in time. It was the Cullivan Creek fire the two (different) Wardens at Tuaton Lake had told us about, now almost three weeks old. The guys in the jet boat said there was no smoke at Beggerlay Creek, several miles downstream. We continued on down, scouted and ran Beggerlay Rapids and Canyon, stayed and watched the Canadians run it as they were right behind us, then we camped on river left at the old railroad bridge just upstream of the Klappan (Kluh-PAN) River confluence, not far below Beggerlay. The Canadians continued on down to the takeout as one of them had to catch a plane home early the next day. A very long day for all of us, we covered about 39 miles (63 km) in the canoes.

Day 18 -- Friday, 7 August, 1992
The next morning we knew we had fast current and only about 15 miles (24 km) to go to our 3 pm shuttle rendezvous, so we stayed around camp and hiked, birded, and slowly packed gear. While eating an early lunch before we launched, Jerry and Judy MacNab of Milwaukee, Wisconsin stopped and chatted. They were also taking out today and had spent only 8 days on the river, putting in at Tuaton like we did. We leap-frogged down the rest of the river with them, and got to our takeout at the Cassiar Highway bridge at about the same time. Best take-out is just after the bridge on the right. We talked with the MacNabs as we unpacked and cleaned the boats. They had just come off a flood stage Yukon River trip, Whitehorse to Dawson, and did this run for dessert, before starting the drive for home.

Jerry hitch hiked down to Red Goat Lodge to get his van while we waited for Tony Shaw, Red Goat proprietor, at our prearranged pick up time. We all got back to the lodge at about the same time. Took showers and decided to also take advantage of the hostel rooms instead of setting up in the rainy, mosquito ridden campground. We BSed with Jerry and Judy until about 11 pm that evening. There was also a very interesting older couple there for the night, both biology teachers retired from the University of BC (or U. Victoria, BC?). They had just come out from Cold Fish Lake Camp where they had been doing volunteer research work in that special area of Spatsizi Wilderness Park.

Day 19 -- Saturday, 8 August, 1992
We ended up eating breakfast with MacNabs the next morning at the restaurant across the highway from Red Goat Lodge. Laurie, John, Dennis and I had debated last night on paying for a scenic flight over Edziza Park, and maybe the Grand Canyon, but the weather this morning wasn't good enough to bother. Better weather wasn't forecast, so we decided to just head for home. The Cassiar Highway mountain scenery was great, despite the rain, and we also took the side route to the towns of Stewart, B.C. and Hyder, AK for a quick look (and to step into Alaska) on the way down to Smithers. Another coincidental meeting with MacNabs at Tyee Provincial Campground outside of Smithers that night. Skihist Campground again the next night, then home the following day.

End of File

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