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Yukon Territory - North/Black/Liard River Canoe Trip, Trip Report

Chapter Six -- On Black Lake (To a 56kb Text-Only version, no pictures)

Lake trout, 
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Dennis's lake trout
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Day 7 (continued). Saturday, 5 July, 1997

We reached Black Lake at 12:30, just after it started sprinkling a little rain. (Black Lake Area Map) It's a small lake, only a little over a mile long (2 km). John and Dennis fished at the mouth run-out while Hank and Laurie paddled on to check a beach in the distance for any campsite potential. We wanted a good one as we were going to lay over a day here. The fishermen caught and released lake trout on their way to the beach while Hank and Laurie waited, drifting the middle of the lake to avoid bugs. Two loons called from not very far away, and we watched them as we read our books between rain showers.

Black Lake, 
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Black Lake from the air
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We ate lunch (hot Ramen noodles) on that beach during another typically short thundershower, but it's not a spot suitable to us for camping. Hank and Laurie paddled down to the outlet of the lake. They noticed on the way that an island indicated on the map is a shallow spot with one large rock sticking about 6 inches above the surface at this water level.

Cabin, 
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Jim Botti's cabin
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Hank and Laurie paddled back up to the north end of the lake to check what was seen through binoculars to be an aluminum canoe upside down on the lake shore. It's at a trapper's cabin with a bronze plaque on a tree nearby that said, "In loving memory of James Botti, 1936-1989." Much trash all over the place. The cabin is not locked. Traps hanging all over the outside, an old dog sled on the roof, lots of paper back books on shelves inside (a real Louis L'amour fan!), plus evidence of squirrels and mice all over. Two bald eagles roosting nearby, but no suitable tent sites here.

Campsite 1, 
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Campsite from the water
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We found the fishermen, who pointed us to a long, narrow beach just east of the river mouth for camping. At the same time we pointed out a moose browsing on shore at the mouth of the river. It heard us and ran off upstream along the river bank. We set up camp on the beach and put up a rain fly. More wolf tracks at the east end of the beach. Later, Hank was sitting in his chair on the beach and a mink ran up the shoreline to within four feet of him (1.2 m) before it noticed and turned into the brush. After that, we heard and saw another moose running in the shallow water in front of the trapper's cabin. It's 6:20 pm. Distance paddled today was only a little over five miles (8 km) from our campsite last night to this one, but we put in lots more time on the lake poking around.

Camp view, 
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Black Lake campsite
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Through binoculars John saw six caribou on a snowfield, then a bear (probably a grizzly) crossing a different snowfield, which interrupted our fish supper a bit. This animal action was all over two miles away (3.2 km) and 1400 feet (425 m) above us. Not much danger from that grizzly, anyway. A total of 24 caribou seen on the trip, so far, and our first bear on the river (we had seen two blackies near the road while driving the Cassiar). A day in paradise, despite the typically short midday rain showers. Macaroni and cheese with lake trout for supper.

Day 8. Sunday, 6 July, 1997

John's trout, 
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John's lake trout
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65°F degrees at 8:30 (18.5°C). A layover day on Black Lake, no travel. Hashbrown potatoes with cheese and corn for breakfast. The sky is mostly clear with a few thin, high clouds. Sun very bright, and the caribou are moving around on the snow. John wanted a "lunker trout" picture so he and Dennis went out and got a fish for a photo, then released it (see Salmonella). They were back for lunch and a sponge bath while it was warm and sunny.

Lake view 1, 
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Black Lake view 1
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Cloudiness slowly increased and a breeze appeared with some sprinkles about 12:30, though still very warm. Mosquitoes were bad under the tarp during the rain. The rain fly seems to collect the mosquitoes, and we postulate whether they do any "rough sensing" for blood by infrared, like our body temperature, or heated air under the dark awning, then home in on scent or CO2
Lake view 2, 
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Black Lake view 2
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concentration when they get closer. The rain didn't last for long. About 2:00 pm, John went back out fishing alone, and as he left, pointed out a moose splashing across the river delta to the west. It swam across the bay to a point south of the trappers cabin, shook water off, and disappeared into the brush there.

80°F+ degrees (26.5°C) on Dennis's thermometer which was in the sun. A very pleasant day and evening. On and off cloudy, but very warm. Noodles, broccoli and fish supper. John also celebrated the day with a "Mountain Man Margarita" (Shudder -- don't ask!). There was a light sprinkle for a short time immediately after crawling into bed at 9:45 pm.


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